Greenwashing Comes out in the Wash

While clothes made of recycled plastic may sound like a good idea, they can cause environmental harm at multiple levels.

First, recycled polyester used to produce textiles comes mostly from plastic bottles rather than from textile waste. This means that recyclable plastic bottles get downcycled into clothes, which cannot be further recycled and instead end in landfill or incinerators.

The second problem is the greenwashing of plastic-made garments by the fashion industry. Currently, polyester makes up 59% of global fibre production. Rapid expansion of cheap synthetic clothing drives the increase in plastic fibre production and accelerates the plastic pollution crisis. Brands try to cover this fact with false claims about sustainability of clothes made of recycled plastic and keep increasing production.

What’s more, clothes made of synthetic fibres shed microplastics – this happens during production and while wearing but primarily during washing.The 2017 IUCN report estimated that washing of synthetic textiles is the largest source of primary microplastic pollution in the ocean (exceeding all other sources, like car tyre wear, city dust or personal care products). Primary microplastics are released from households and industrial products, unlike secondary microplastics released during degradation of mismanaged plastic waste.

A recent report study commissioned by the Changing Markets Foundation and carried out by the Microplastic Research Group at Çukurova University shows that recycled polyester sheds even more microplastics during washing than virgin, non-recycled material. The study compared the release of plastic microfibres from clothes from several brands – Adidas, H&M, Nike, Shein and Zara. Recycled polyester materials released at least 55% more microfibres than virgin polyester. Moreover, fibres released from recycled textiles were smaller in size, increasing toxicity – small fibres spread faster and cross biological barriers that block larger particles. Authors of the report point out that natural fibres like cotton also release microfibres during washing, however – due to their larger size and biodegradability – they pose much lower risk to human health and environment than plastic fibres.

The results of the report are worrying, but the authors provide several recommendations for consumers, which can help reduce microfibre emission and exposure. You can start by buying clothes made from high-quality natural textiles – they can last longer than cheap synthetic clothes. Support brands that address the microfibre release issue by producing clothes from safe fibres and non-shedding textiles. You should also change your washing habits – use lower temperatures and short cycles, decrease the detergent amount, load your washing machine fully, and don’t wash your clothes more often than necessary. Avoid tumble drying; hang dry your clothes instead. This way you don’t only lower the release of microfibres but also save energy and water.

Importantly, consumers must campaign for policy change, calling for stronger microplastic regulation and a closer scrutiny of fashion’s environmental claims.

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For more information contact: info@scarabtrust.org.uk

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